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Panfried and topped with zesty tomato chutney, it was one of the best fish burgers I've ever eaten. But there was something else, too, something familiar that drew me in.Thomas created her fish pav without knowing that, barely a block away on Snyder Avenue, the venerable Texas Wieners (est.A dusting of Kashmiri chili-spiked masala spice and tangy mango powder lift the aromas off the plate.

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The chaat salads, in particular, make for an especially refreshing start.

Each one, whether anchored by samosas, cuminy warm chicken, or slow-stewed chickpeas, offers an intricate display of different crunchy snacks layered upon one another - puffed rice, round papdi crackers, tiny shreds of sev gram noodles, itsy beads of fried chickpea flour boondi - tossed in swirls of tart yogurt, minty green chutney, and tangy-sweet brown tamarind deepened with date paste and jaggery brown sugar.

From the array of intricately crunchy chaat salads to little pav sliders stuffed with curried fish patties and the flaky parotta flatbreads wrapped taco-style around coconut-braised short ribs, Chaat & Chai breezily steps beyond the predictable playbook that most local Indian restaurants have followed.

First off is the seemingly random location, on a deep South Philly block tucked behind the Melrose Diner.

The coastal state of Kerala has India's largest Christian population, which explains why beef, forbidden in most other parts of the country, is a prominent part of its cuisine.

At traditional Kerala-style restaurants like Mallu Cafe in Northeast Philly, the exceptionally delicate parotta is simply served as a side ("use it as a wrap," our server there told us), so the taco-style presentation here isn't that far off base.

Co-owner Anney Thomas lives nearby and had always wanted to open a tea cafe and spice shop in her neighborhood to showcase the distinctive flavors of Kerala, the South Indian state where she was born before moving to Northeast Philly as a young girl.

When Thomas persuaded Margie Felton, her onetime roommate and former colleague (long ago at the Commissary) to join the project as her partner and co-chef, the snack-cafe concept grew into something a bit more substantial - suitable for a proper sit-down meal.

1923) has been serving fish cakes on buns (often atop a hot dog) forever.

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